LOCKING NUTS

Basically, there are two types of locking devices in wide use today. Both seem to work equally well.

One unit replaces the nut and usually clamps the string from the top down.(See Fig. #1) The advantage here is you don’t have a regular nut on the guitar that might cause extra tuning and intonation problems. The locking device is the nut. The disadvantage is in the fact that it is fairly difficult to change the action at the nut (not to mention string spacing). If you have this type locking nut and feel that the action isn’t to your liking, you’ll need to take it to your local repairperson.

The other unit sits behind the existing nut and usually clamps from the bottom up.(See Fig. #2) By contrast, its advantages are that since you still have a regular nut on the instrument, you can easily change the action and string spacing, etc. With either unit, never over tighten the locking screws. It is a common problem that after much over- tightening, the allen heads and/or the screw threads will strip out. Also, over-tightening leads to early string breakage. A good snug fit is alway best.

If you feel that your strings are slipping through the nut lock and that because of this you need to really bear down on the lock, then take this to you local repairperson and talk to him or her about it. There may be a simple remedy that will save a lot of wear and tear on your system.

One such developing trend is using nuts that have “rollers”. (See Fig. #3) Here the string is free to move back and forth unimpeded. Often these nuts are used in conjunction with tuning heads that have locking devices that hold the string tightly to the tuner. (See Fig. #4)

The idea is that by eliminating any slippage of the string at the tuner (via the locking tuner), and by allowing the string to move completely freely through the nut (via the roller nut), you can do away with more complicated locking systems and still achieve the same results.

If you have an older fulcrum type and wish to upgrade, you might try this approach before you completely replace it with a new locking system. Talk to your local dealer or repair- person for more information about what might work for you.

CAUTIONS: Read the section earlier in this booklet on general maintenance, as this applies to your tremolo as well. There are a couple of things that should be talked about specifically for the wang bar.

Remember to wipe off the bridge after each use with a soft dry cloth. This will greatly increase the dependability of the unit. Be aware that all the moving parts on your tremolo system need to move as freely as possible. For example, if your unit has rollers for the saddle pieces, these need to be free to roll or your strings will get hung up and out of tune. It’s a good idea to apply a tiny drop of 3-in-1 oil once a month to each of the rollers, pivot points, or other regularly moving parts and be sure to wipe off the excess oil.

STRINGS AND WANGS: Tremolos are hard on strings! No doubt about it. So there are a few things to consider concerning strings.

If your strings attach to the tremolo using regular ball ends, buy strings that are made with reinforcing at the windings. Since the plain strings (the high strings) tend to slip at the wrap near the ball end, reinforced strings were develpoed. These have an extra wrapping of wire around where the string ties to the ball. The wound strings in these sets are the same as in a regular set since these tend not to slip.

With some bars, you have to cut off the ball ends of the strings. If this is the case, DON’T buy reinforced strings. When you cut off the ball, you’ll be cutting off the reinforcing. Lock and unlock the string at the nut as few times as possible. The more times you clamp down on the string, the more likely it is to break. You should be able to put on a new set of strings and only lock down the nut once. To do this, be sure to put the fine tuners in their middle position. This way you will have plenty of travel up and down for tuning.